Whycocomah? Because it is there!

Our last night on Cape Breton was at the lovely Whycocomah Provincial Park. Huge grassy sites with great views of the village across the water.

One unique "feature", however is the placement of the washrooms. They’re quite a way from our site, and way down the hill too. The quad and glute workout is free!

In the pic, our tent is up and to the right of the picnic table waaay up the hill.

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Skyline Trail: Foggy then spectacular

We revisited the Skyline Trail in Cape Breton Highlands Park, although we weren’t sure what to expect. It was one of the highlights of our 2005 trip but this morning was very foggy.

The trail started like a trip through the Forbidden Forest, and by the time we made it to the headlands we couldn’t see a thing. We spent about 30 minutes taking pictures of the nothingness.

Then, just as we were heading back down the trail, the skies cleared. We hurried back to a glorious view of French Mountain, the headlands, and the ocean. We could see clear across to Cheticamp. Well worth the wait!

It was also cool to run into Monica Rivers and her family on the trail, who are also from Regina. Small worl indeed…

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Cape Breton Highlands

The early morning fog doesn’t detract from the views; I think it enhances them.

This is one of Canada’s most beautiful places.

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Foggy Day at the Beach

When you’re retracing your steps from five years ago, you just have to go for it, no matter what the weather. Today that meant a trip to Marguerite Beach on Nova Scotia’s Eastern Shore. It’s a beautiful white sand beach that just screams out for playing in the surf.

We did just that – fog or no fog – and had a great time. The water was absolutely freezing, but that’s what the Atlantic is all about!

It was a great day that we topped off the same way as our first trip – fish and chips and a lobster roll at the little red shack at the side of the road at Musquodoboit Harbour. Yay!

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Growing a Champion

Every winter I get a copy of the Vesey’s Seed Catalogue in the mail. The vegetables pictured in the catalogue always get me pumped for spring. One of my favorite pictures is of Howard Dill’s "Atlantic Giant" pumpkins. These are the World Record pumpkins, routinely over 600 pounds each.

So today, as we left the Annapolis Valley and headed to Nova Scotia’s Eastern Shore, we took a detour to Windsor, NS to check out the Dill Farm.

The picture is of a single pumpkin plant that is ready to be pollinated. They’ll pollinate 1 fruit per stem and then cull back to the two fruits which are growing the fastest (ideal is two inches per day!)

That single plant gets the entire bed all to itself; it will take the whole 20×20 bed to feed those massive squash.

I’d love to come back in seven weeks and see how they’re shaping up!

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Pearle’s in Paradise

Part of the thrill of travelling without an itinerary is that one is often hungry or tired without knowing where the next meal or bed is.

That was the situation today, as we left Lunenburg in the 35C heat and headed overland to Annapolis Royal and then east to Bridgetown.

By the time we got to Bridgetown it was 7:30PM and the whole town was shut down. On Friday night in July, no less. So camping at Valley View wasn’t going to work (we had no food.). Quick decision: head northeast toward Wolfville, find food on the way, and a place to stay after that.

10 minutes later, I hear Cindy shout "Pearlesfishburgershotdogsicecream!!" I pulled a hard left into an amazing shack by the side of the road. It’s in the middle of nowhere, if you don’t count the 30 cars around the lot and the lineup in front.

The burgers were awesome and the fish was huge, if a little "moist". Just what we needed.

Now let’s see if we can find a motel…

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Peggy’s Cove: Beauty, Fog and Mould

We left Halifax, heading south along the South Shore. Beautiful old cottages (houses really) dotted along miles of bays and small islands.

Took the side road to check out the lighthouse at Peggy’s Cove. Beautiful! Spent an hour or so climbing on the huge rocks and seeing what we could from the fog. It was very pleasant weather but very foggy on the point.
Last time we were here there was a post office in the lighthouse, but now the post office is closed down. I guess they painted the lighthouse last year and found mould inside, so shut everything down.

I thought mould could be cleaned or treated or something, but I guess not at a government operation? Not sure.

It sure seems mould is more scary to North Americans than Al Qeida these days. "Holmes on Homes" needs to take some of the blame (OMG! MOULD!! Tear it all down!!!). Maybe I should start Moldy Mark’s Home Cleaning and make my fortune…

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What’s your favorite dish? Fish!

The family pecking order for Good Eats on this trip goes something like this:

– home fries: Required
– great fish: Required
– burgers or chicken for Robyn (who doesn’t eat seafood): must be nearby.
– pop in bottles, from local brewer: 1point bonus
– a shack where you stand in line to order: 1 point bonus.
– picnic tables out back with a view of water: 3 point bonus.

The Battered Fish on Halifax harbour scores full points. Pure bliss!

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Hup Hup Holland!

Was wandering around downtown Halifax looking for a place to watch the game when I saw a huge World Cup banner.

It turns out I found the dutch enclave too! Kickoff in 15 minutes and I can hardly wait.

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Typical attire in Halifax

It’s a warm day, but the ladies still prefer traditional attire. And if I understand things correctly, beer. Alexander Keiths beer.

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